pearance is more like that of a large public edifice. Here every luxury that the greatest epicure can wish for, may be procured. During the excessive summer heats, ice is to be had at any of the hotels or boardinghouses; grapes, peaches, apricots, apples, and many other fruits, are also abundant. Much better accommodations are found in this city than at Quebec.

The Montreal apples have long been celebrated. The pomme grise (grey), in particular, is a most delicious fruit; the pomme de neige, or fameuse, which granulates and melts in the mouth, and bourrasa, are all excellent.

The pleasures and amusements of Montreal resemble so closely those of Quebec, that the same description is sufficient. There is a very neatly fittedup theatre near the mansion-house; and a circus has for some years been annually opened by a company of American equestrians, in which the exhibitions of horsemanship that I have witnessed, are only surpassed, not in mere physical power, but in classical attitudes, by Ducrow. I believe the building has since then been converted to some other purpose.

Riding on horseback, and driving out in open carriages, appear to be more indulged in than at Quebec; and the winter season being milder, is also more favourable to picnic parties at that season. There are annual races, and also a fox and jockey club, but the foxes are, I believe, always bagged.*

The outlets from Montreal are not surpassed, in soft luxuriant beauty, any where in America. The ride round the mountain is most indulged in, and thought the most agreeable. I think, however, that the ride along the banks of the rapids of Lachine is preferable.

The mountain is about 600 feet above the level of the river; along its foot, and particularly up its sides, are thickly interspersed orchards, corn-fields, and villas; above which, to the very summit of the mountain, trees grow in luxuriant variety.

A little distance up among the trees, a plain white pillar is seen from the town. This monument stands over a natural romantic alcove, in the bosom of which, within a mausoleum, repose the ashes of the late Simon M'Tavish, Esq. To this retired and beautiful spot a pretty path winds among the trees. He used frequently to sit for hours reading on this spot, where, on his death-bed, he requested to be buried. Some distance below it stands the large mansion which he erected, but did not live to finish; nor has this yet been accomplished. The prospect from the mountain is truly grand, although the features of the scenery want the romantic grandeur viewed from Cape Diamond. On the south, we observe the blue hills of Vermont, and all around, a vast extent of thickly inhabited, cultivated, and fertile country, embellished with woods, waters, churches, houses, and farms. Under us, we have a map view of the city of Montreal, with its shipping and river craft,

4

and the Island of St. Helena; and opposite, the low lands of Longeuil, where the river is about two miles over, and La Prairie, about eight miles distant; upwards, lie "Nuns' Islands," and several others, among which Lachine foams and rushes; and, on the right, the low ground crossed by the Lachine Canal. There are good roads leading to the east end of the island, opposite to Repentigny, and to Isle Jesus, where ferries are established, and also by Lachine to St. Anne's. The post road to Lachine leads over one of those steps or heights, which occur in the rear of alluvial lands: the ground lying between it and the rapids is low and fertile. The road along the river is two or three miles longer; but the traveller who prefers it, if he has any taste for the beauties of nature, will be more than pleased when he rides for nine miles along the beautiful scenery of this part of the St. Lawrence.

To obviate the obstructions in the navigation of the St. Lawrence above Montreal, various canals have been completed, and others are now cutting.

The Lachine Canal, immediately above Montreal, which was undertaken by the province in 1821, is nine miles long, twenty feet wide, and five deep. It has substantial stone locks 100 feet long. The total expense was 130,000l.; and the tolls, which must greatly increase, paid last year 4 per cent. on this

amount.

At Lachine, there are government stores and bateaux; here also are the goods of the Indian department deposited; and thirty bateaux are sometimes employed to carry them to Kingston. The whole sum thus expended in the shape of presents to the Indians, has produced no efficient good. This is unquestionable. Why, therefore, should it be persisted in ? as the money, if at all appropriated for their benefit, might be more wisely and much more usefully applied.

The beautiful and fertile Isle Jesus, which contains three large populous parishes, viz., St. Vincent de Paul, Ste. Rose, and St. Martin, belongs to the ecclesiastics of the Seminary of Quebec, to whom it was granted, together with Isles aux Vaches, contiguous to it, in 1699. It is separated from the main land by the River Jean, or Jesus. Opposite, at the upper end of the stream, is the beautiful village of St. Eustache.

Lachine has long been a great point of departure for Upper Canada. From it the North-west Company despatched their large bark canoes for the Uttawa and western regions, laden with various and necessary articles. From this place, also, the steam-boats now start for Upper Canada; and we may either take a passage by one of them, or we may drive in a calèche, through a beautiful rural country, to St. Anne's, from whence we may cross the ferry to Isle Perrault, and from thence proceed to Upper Canada; or, by the lake of the two mountains, continue our voyage or journey up the Uttawa.

CHAP. XX.

THE RIVER OTTAWA, OR GRAND RIVER. - LAKES. - SEIGNIORIES. -CANALS. - HULL. - PHILEMON WRIGHT. - MACNAB. - BYTOWN. - UNION BRIDGE. - CHAUDIERE. - RAPIDS. - GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS, ETC.

STEAM-BOATS, bateaux, and other river craft, proceed from the island of Montreal up the Ottawa, or Uttawa, and pass through the lock lately cut at Vaudreuil to the Long Saut rapids, near Grenville; to obviate which, a canal is now cutting, about forty miles above Lachine, by government, that will cost about 180,000l.

The Ottawa has only been very partially explored. It rises in the north-west regions, beyond Lake Huron; and probably winds its course, for from ten to twelve hundred miles, before it joins the St. Lawrence. This great river, however, was scarcely known, except to the fur traders. It was their grand route to the north-west territories. Forty to fifty canoes formerly proceeded from Lachine with articles of traffic, and ascended the Ottawa for about 300 miles; from whence they were carried over portages and décharges, or paddled along lakes, and then across by French River to Lake Huron. The coasts of this lake, and those of Lake Superior, were afterwards traversed, until the voyagers reached the Grand Portage, where they received the furs purchased by the Company's agents from the Indians. The voyagers then returned with these furs to Montreal; and