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tance overhang and frown over falls and rapids, in terrific sublimity, and in some places, so far do the rocks project, that the waters are nearly hidden from view.

Although these falls (hitherto, I believe, scarcely ever described by any traveller) bear in magnitude no comparison to those of Niagara, yet there is a toutensemble of tremendous rocks, gigantic woods, and a continuity of cataracts and broken waters, below the Grand Falls of St. John, which impart much greater variety to the magnificent scene, than the otherwise unparalleled Niagara can boast of.

Proceeding up the River St. John, from the cove above the falls, its waters become smooth, deep, and sluggish. The boats and pirogues of the Acadians, and occasionally the white bark canoe of the Indian, appear now and then on its surface, while we pass for some miles along the wild but fertile lands through which it flows, until we arrive at the straggling settlement of Acadian French at Madawaska. This is comprehended within the vast rich country claimed by the Americans, which if we be so supine as to relinquish, farewell to firmness in the councils of Great Britain.

The Acadians of Madawaska are even more simple in their manners, and much more limited in the extent of their intelligence, than those I have described in a former book. This arises from their situation: living since their childhood along the banks of an unfrequented river, which flows through an almost boundless forest, they have had no intercourse with the rest of the world, unless it were once a-year to Fredericton, to sell their surplus grain. They are descendants of the original French settlers in Nova Scotia,

who retreated here to avoid the English. A few families from Canada also joined them; and since that period they have remained a quiet, loyal people, confined to their own means of procuring subsistence, and to their local resources alone for social enjoyments. They have a chapel, and a priest from Canada officiates among them; they live by agriculture, but they are slovenly farmers, and regardless of cleanliness or comfort in their houses. Their wants are, however, so few, that little serves them; and as their wives make, of the wool of their sheep, and the flax they raise, all the clothes they require; and being ignorant of the luxuries of the world, and what we are accustomed to call comforts, they are, therefore, independent of them, and live among themselves happy, and comparatively free from the cares which accompany the refinements of civilisation. They are hospitable to strangers, chaste, strongly attached to hereditary customs, strict in their religious observances, and very superstitious.

Some miles above the Acadian settlements, the St. John receives the waters of the Madawaska, which previously winds through the forest, about thirty miles after issuing from the Lake Tamisquata. This lake, which is about twenty-three miles long, and in some places two and a half miles across, and in many parts deep, receives numerous streams, several of which issue from smaller lakes. In 1823, the principal proprietor (Mr. Frazer) of the surrounding lands, which are Canadian fiefs, established his residence on the shore of Lake Tamisquata, and named the village Strathern. The country surrounding these waters appears to be very fertile; the mountainous ridge of the Alleghany chain lies between them and the River

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St. Lawrence; and by this route the courier with the mail for Canada travels by way of Kamouraska to Quebec.

Leaving the Madawaska, the River St. John winds to the westward, branching over an extensive and fertile country into numerous streams, the largest of which, except the main river, is the St. Francis. It approaches within a mile or two of those falling into the St. Lawrence. The St. John issues from some small lakes near the source of the River Penobscot; and, with its tributaries, waters the disputed territory.

CHAP. VI.

COAST OF THE BAY OF FUNDY. - PASSAMAQUODDY BAY, AND ISLANDS. - GRAND MANAN. - CAMPOBELLO. - DEER ISLAND. - AMERICAN FRONTIER. - EASTPORT AND ROBINSTOWN. TOWN OF ST. ANDREW. - ST. STEPHEN'S. - RIVERS ST. CROIX AND SCHOODIE. - DIGDAQUASH. - MAGAQUADAVIC.- L'ETANG - LE PREAUX. - MUSQUASH. - QUACO. - CHEPODY. - PETIT GREAT

MEMRAMсоок.

WESTMORELAND.

COUDIAC.
ROADS. INTERIOR SETTLEMENTS, ETC.

The bay of Passamaquoddy separates the sea-coast of New Brunswick from that of the state of Maine. This magnificent and beautiful inlet is studded with numerous islands, some of which are richly wooded, and afford soil of fair quality, and most of them have convenient advantages for fishing.

Grand Manan, which lies at the entrance of the bay of Fundy, is about thirty-five miles from Brier Island, on the coast of Nova Scotia, and from eight to nine miles from the shores of Maine. Its length is about fourteen miles, and its breath six or seven. It is chiefly covered with trees, growing on a soil. of tolerable fertility, 4000 to 5000 acres of which are under fair cultivation. A great portion of the remaining surface is occupied by heaths, and seven small lakes or ponds. The population, about 800, consists principally of families whose parents or themselves removed from the United States, and whose habits and manners resemble very much those of the inhabitants of the neighbouring state of Maine.

They have often been considered as particularly au fait at scheming and over-reaching; but I think the reputation of the multitude has been too severely charged with all the villainy of some daring adventurers. The situation of the island certainly offers all that could be desired, either for a school or rendezvous for smugglers; and the late American tariff offers temptations to evade revenue laws, and to despise the vigilance of revenue cruisers, of which they take the full benefit. It forms a parish, and has an Episcopal church.

Ship-building, fishing, and agriculture, as well as interchanging commodities, either by open or illicit means, are each followed by the inhabitants, in their turn. The dangerous ledges and rocks that abound round Grand Manan, particularly on the south and south-east; its perpendicular rocky cliffs, in some places 600 feet high; its position, at the entrance of the bay of Fundy, with the violence of the tides, and the fogs which prevail, when the winds blow from the Atlantic, render this island at all seasons the dread of mariners. A lighthouse, as projected by the late Mr. Lockwood, surveyor-general of the province, on Gannet Rock, and an efficient light on Brier Island, in place of the beggarly one now on it, are objects that should seriously engage the consideration of the respective legislatures of Nova Scotia and New Brunswick.* On Quoddy-head, the Americans have a

* On my passage to New Brunswick, in 1828, we approached the Bay of Fundy, on a remarkably fine evening in September. At sunset, we saw the high lands of Mount Desert to the west. The wind was fair, yet the master, an experienced and very able seaman, seemed unusually anxious and watchful in shaping his course, so as to be at a safe distance from the ledges of Manan and those

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