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that had notched springs, which expanded within the cavity, the shell always burst. A plug two and a half ounces weight, was thrown four hundred and fifteen yards, with the elevation of the fuse axis at 45°. Rocks, particularly those of the calcareous, schistous, and sandstone order, are often rent by the expansive force of intense frosts.

The climate of Montreal and the upper country is nearly in every respect similar to the general system and theory of the climate, as treated of in the first volume of this work. The temperature of the region south and west of the bend of the Ottawa at Bytown, lying between Lakes Ontario, Huron, and Erie, are milder in winter, but in some parts less salubrious in summer. Fogs are unknown. A light mist, occasioned by the condensation at night and evaporation in the morning, appears occasionally about sunrise, but soon dissipates.

Canada is eminently blessed with a remarkably clear atmosphere. The sky at Montreal, both in summer and winter, is beautifully bright. I have often heard it compared to that of the Mediterranean. Rains in summer and autumn are far from being frequent, but they fall in great quantities at one time. Waterspouts are sometimes formed on the great lakes. Thunder storms, although of short duration, are remarkably violent, particularly at and near Quebec. Squalls of wind are frequent on the lakes and rivers, in the vicinity of high lands. Strong gales of wind occur in Canada about the 20th of October. They sometimes, particularly on the great lakes, resemble perfect hurricanes.

Volney observes, that there is a correspondence of time and action between these storms and those of the Gulf of Mexico; and Dr. Franklin, with his usual sagacity, on remarking this periodical disturbance of the air, inferred that the focus of the movement existed in the Gulf of Mexico.

CHAP. XV.

COAST OF THE RIVER ST. LAWRENCE FROM GASPÈ TO QUEBEC. -BAY OF SEVEN ISLANDS. - TRINITY. - MANICOUGAN SHOALS.

PORT NEUF. - SOUTH SHORE. - CAPE GASPÈ. - ANSE DE L'ÉTANG. - MATANE. — MITIS. — RIMOUSKI. -BIQUE. - TROIS PISTOLES.- APPEARANCE OF THE SOUTH COAST. - ROADS, TRAVELLING. AUBERGES. CHURCHES. HABITANS' HOUSES. RIVIÈRE DE LOUP. KAMOURASKA. - ST. ANNE'S. ST. THOMAS'S. - HABITANS ON SUNDAY. - MORAL CHARACTER. - POINT LEVI.

CANADIAN PARISHES.

THE coast and interior country of Lower Canada, from Cape Gaspè to the Paps of Matane, a distance of about 200 miles, still exhibit the same primeval wildness which this portion of the western world presented to Cartier 296 years ago. The northern shores, from Labrador to Tadousac, are equally desolate; and, if we except the king's posts at Seven Islands' Bay and Port Neuf, we discover no signs of art or civilisation, no traces of the industry or enterprise of man. A few miserable wandering Montagnez Indians, and a few transient fishermen and furriers, are the only human beings that frequent this cold and barren region. The vast country which lies between the lower shores of the St. Lawrence and Hudson Bay, seems, indeed, unfit for any other inhabitants, save the shaggy bear, prowling wolf, ruthless Esquimaux, and hardy Mountaineer Indian, who wander along its waters, or traverse its wastes; yet the vast swarms of salmon that frequent its rivers, and the remarkably fine fur of its wild animals, offer sufficient temptations to the adventurous, and sources of profit to the industrious. Minerals, especially iron, are believed to abound; but, from the geological formation of the country, I think that few, unless it be copper, will ever be found east or north of the Saguenay.

The Bay of Seven Islands lies on the north coast of the St. Lawrence, which at this point is seventy miles broad. It derives its name from seven high rugged islands which lie at its entrance. There is deep water close to these islands, which rise abruptly out of the sea, and from ten to fifty fathoms' depth of water in the bay. It forms, within, a large round basin; and the lands at its head appear sinking low in the horizon, while those on each side are high and rugged. Here there is a king's post, rented formerly to the North-west Company, and lately to the Hudson Bay Company. Humpback whales enter this bay, in which they are sometimes pursued, both by the American and Gaspè whalers.

The best track, sailing up the St. Lawrence, nearly as far as Tadousac, especially with contrary winds, is along the north coast. The current always runs so strongly down along the south shore, that it can only be stemmed with a fair wind. The shores of Anticosti are flat, but the soundings are regular; and lighthouses are erecting on the east and west points of this dangerous island. The Labrador coast may be safely approached. It affords harbours, and excellent anchorage, and the tides are nearly regular. Trinity, a little below Point des Monts Pelées, on which a lighthouse has lately been erected, is a place where ships anchor in proceeding up the St. Lawrence with a head wind.* Pilots usually meet vessels between Point des Monts and Cape Chat, which is nearly opposite, on the south side. There are two formidable dangers off the north shore, between Point des Monts and Tadousac. The first is a rocky shoal, extending several miles off and along the coast at Manicougan. Several ships have been stranded on it. The other is a lesser danger, lying off Point de Mille Vaches, a little above

* On my last sailing up the St. Lawrence, we anchored here for some days, alongside of several ships. One of these was a passenger ship from Ireland; and most miserable was the appearance of the poor beings who were on board of her. Squalid poverty, aggravated by being crammed thickly together in the ship's hold, presented as deplorable a picture of human wretchedness as I have ever witnessed. Their total want of money, or requisite necessaries, and their utter ignorance of the country to which they were going, or how they were to procure the means of living, afforded a subject of abundant interest for the destinies of families, consisting of old men and women, middle-aged, and young children. On board of another ship, which had sailed from London, there were a few English passengers; among whom I observed a genteel-looking woman, walking on the deck, with three pretty and neatly dressed children. She seemed, however, to have known better days, and to have been forced from a once comfortable home by the pressure of poverty; at least, the care-worn countenance of her husband, who came on deck soon after, justified this conclusion ; for his wife was rather cheerful than otherwise. She certainly bore her troubles, whatever they might be, with more firmness than her husband; and I have seldom observed a more unaffected or interesting exemplification of the sacred affection of the mother and wife than in this woman. She had suffered greatly from sea-sickness; but trusted that, soon after their arrival at Quebec, they would be settled in a tolerably comfortable way in some part of Canada.

They were also ignorant of the country, and formed their conclusions according to English habits and ideas. Thousands similarly situated leave the United Kingdom for North America.

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