the king's post at Port Neuf. There is no further danger until we pass the mouth of the river Saguenay; from which to Quebec a pilot is absolutely necessary. I therefore return to sketch a brief description of the south coast of the St. Lawrence, which has hitherto been neglected in all the English accounts of Canada that I have seen. The counties of Gaspè, Rimouski, and Kamouraska, comprehending a valuable territory, extending about 300 miles along the River St. Lawrence, are less known in England than Kamtschatka. Cape Gaspè is rather high, and its rocky cliffs are perpendicular. Cape Rosier is low, but the land behind rises into high round hills; and the whole is covered with trees of various kinds, except a few small spots near the Cape, cleared by some fishermen settled there. The coast preserves this character as we proceed up the St. Lawrence, and generally slopes, covered with trees, to the water's edge. At Great Fox River there are also a few fishermen; and at Anse de l'Etang, twelve leagues above Cape Gaspè, there is a small harbour for shallops. It may be known by a remarkably high wooded conical hill on the east side, and by a beach with a few huts and stages on the west. Some of the habitans of the parish of St. Thomas, on the Rivière du Sud, thirty miles below Quebec, frequent this place during the cod-fishing season. The river issues from several lakes, one of which is only half a mile through the woods from the fish stages.* Fishermen also fre * I landed at this place, and travelled up to the lake. The river descends from it by three small but beautiful falls. The mountains, which are richly wooded, rise so high on each side and about the head of the lake, that, although it is several miles long, it appeared quent Grand Vallée des Monts, Magdalene, Mount Louis, St. Anne's, and Cape Chat, during summer; but I believe there are no permanent settlers (unless it be at St. Anne's) until we reach Matane. As far, however, as I could judge of the country, it appears to possess sufficient advantages for settlements. The shortness of the summer, and the intense cold of winter, may form strong objections to agriculture; but the severity of its climate differs little from that of the thickly settled agricultural parishes about 200 miles farther up than Cape Gaspè, nor is it so cold as many parts of the corn countries of Russia. The soil in the valleys is fertile, and the uplands appear also to be fit for cultivation. The trees, growing on the hills, and on the sloping high lands facing the coast, if used in ship-building, - and there are abundant convenient situations for building vessels, would be found far more durable than those which grow in the valleys or along the rivers and lakes of the upper country. The "scrubby oak" of the hills, as it is called, is considered as durable as the best English oak. It is admirably adapted for the timbers of a ship, and of sufficient size for the construction of large vessels. The country in the rear of the Canadian seigniories, east of the river Chaudière to Lake Tamiscouta, and to the south as far as the American boundary, including the ungranted lands on the two rivers St. Francis, and the valleys of the district of Gaspè, afford excellent lands, and seem the natural ground of settlement for the redundant population of the already crowded seigniories in front. Grand roads to connect the river St. John, and its branch the St. Francis, and Lake Tamiscouta, with the St. Lawrence, would be of great consequence in facilitating the settlement of this district. little more than a large pond. The habitans had been rather successful in fishing, and they gave us some excellent small cod, and choice pieces of smoked halibut. The following account of Matane, Grand and Petit Mitis, and Rimouski, which may be considered the lowest down of the established settlements on the St. Lawrence, I have lately received from a gentleman who visited those places since I was in Canada: " In proceeding up the river St. Lawrence, after passing Cape Chat, the first place of remark is Matane River, known by a large square white house, and a long barn, level on the top. Ten leagues farther up is Little Matis, or Mitis, situated on a long, low, flat, rocky point, with several white houses, extending about a cable's length to the north-east. This is noticed as a guide to the anchorage of Great Mitis, which is about six miles farther to the westward. On opening the bay (say close in shore), a square house will be first observed, near the waterside; a mile farther, in the south-west corner, up the bay, in the same view, will be seen the upper part only of a house, which is the establishment of Great Mitis. A vessel may close in with Little Mitis Point into six or seven fathoms water, and turn for Great Mitis, by the lead, in from five to eight fathoms. Should the vessel be turning up on the north shore, or in mid-channel, Mount Camille, which will be seen, should be brought to bear northwest by south, which will lead from sea to the bay. As this place has only recently been visited to any extent, I have thought it worth while entering into the particulars. "At Little Mitis the late John M'Nider, Esq., of Quebec, a gentleman of considerable enterprise, established a fishery, with the intention of supplying Quebec, during the summer, with fresh fish, as well as for curing. Notwithstanding the abundance of fish, the scheme did not answer, and, we believe, has been attended with considerable loss; the fish in this part of the river St. Lawrence has been found to be capricious in its haunts, perhaps annoyed by the small whales and porpoises which abound. "Mr. M.Nider also endeavoured to settle and clear the seigniory for cultivation, and many settlers proceeded thither at different times; but the spirited proprietor died in 1829, without having reaped those benefits from his exertions which might have been anticipated; the situation, perhaps, not offering firstrate advantages as regards climate, or (at present) proximity to markets for surplus produce. "About five miles farther west is Grand or Great Mitis: this place has lately risen into notice by the erection of saw-mills by Mr. William Price of Quebec, by whom a very considerable outlay has been made; and by the constant employment afforded by the mills, and felling of logs in the winter, an active little settlement has been created. "The mills are on a fall of the river Mitis, about three miles up; this river, like the Chaudière, near Quebec, and most others on the south side of the St. Lawrence, comes tumbling over rugged rocks of considerable elevation, as it approaches the estuary. The river itself is a small stream, greatly impeded with rapids when not swelled by freshets; and it has been found necessary to dam the river with wickerwork and mud for a considerable distance, to keep back water enough to float the logs down to the mill. From the mill the deals are floated down a dall, or aqueduct, to the basin for shipment, part of the distance being cut through soil and rocks fourteen feet deep. The deals produced are spruce and a very superior yellow pine. "At about half a mile from the débouché of the river is a small rocky island, by which a secure and picturesque basin is formed. Over the sand bar at the entrance of the basin there is fourteen or fifteen feet at low water, and ample room for two vessels to lie stem and stern of each other. The tide flows exactly at one o'clock at full and change, and rises from twelve to fourteen feet. The channel is now marked with buoys into the basin. "With a ship of great draught of water it is advisable to lie in six fathoms at low water, with the house at the east side of the river Mitis open to the eastward of the island in the bay, so that the river may be seen between them. The high land of Bic will then be just clear of Point Osnelle, some of the houses of Little Mitis will be seen, and Mount Camille will bear S.S.W. by compass : in such a mooring, the swell is broken before it comes in by the shore. The ground will be found excellent for anchorage, being clay; and, with one anchor to the eastward and another to the westward, the vessel will ride in perfect security. A vessel of smaller draught may go within five fathoms. "From hence, along the shore, will be observed, at great distances, the small white houses of the habitans; in general, however, occupied by pilots or fish |