CHAP. IV.

CONFIGURATION, SOIL AND CLIMATE, - WILD ANIMALS, BIRDS, - FISHES, ETC., OF UPPER CANADA.

THE configuration of Upper Canada I have delineated partly in the general description of British America, and partly in the geographical outline and aspect of Canada.*

The whole province may be considered, with few exceptions, as sufficiently level in all parts for agriculture. Its soil generally fertile, and, exclusive of the large lakes and rivers, abundantly watered with small lakes and streams.

The principal height of land rises between the Ottawa and the St. Lawrence. Its elevation, however, is neither abrupt nor great.

This height, or rather table land, extends westerly between the streams descending into Lakes Ontario and Erie, and those falling into Lake Huron.

There is no other remarkable elevation, except its principal ramification, which commences above Kingston, and sweeps round Lake Ontario. To the north-west of Bathurst, and north of Lake Huron, a mountainous country prevails.

In the districts east of Lake Ontario, the exceерtions to rich soil are some portions of heavy clay land, and marshy or swampy tracts. None of these are extensive.

• See Vol. I. book ii., and Vol. II. book vii. chap. xiv.

The country between Lake Ontario and Lake Simcoe is in some places less fertile, in others more loamy, and generally less obstructed by rocks or

stones.

The prevailing character of the territory lying between Lakes Ontario, Erie, Huron, and the River Detroit, is luxuriant fertility.

Limestone, gypsum, iron ore of the best quality, salt springs, clay for brick and potters' use; marble, freestone, granite, timber of great dimensions, and adapted for all purposes, are abundant; which, with a soil and climate that will produce wheat, maize, and all other grains and vegetables grown in Europe, delicious fruits, even vines, nectarines, and peaches; grazing lands, plenty of wild fowl, and fish in the numerous rivers and lakes; fresh water and mill streams, and a climate generally salubrious, are the prominent natural advantages.

Its natural inconveniences are, chiefly, its being more difficult of access from the ocean, and somewhat farther from markets, than the other colonies. It is, however, doubtful if these be real disadvantages; for the industry of the inhabitants is consequently more closely applied to agriculture, the only substantial and lasting source of individual prosperity and independence, than the population of a maritime colony.

There are springs of petroleum near the Moravian village, and springs near the head of Lake Ontario impregnated with sulphur, thrown out sometimes in small lumps. Medicinal springs, like those of Balston, are also found at Scarborough, near York. The water of the lakes and River St. Lawrence is wholesome, but in summer too warm to be agreeable. It is impregnated, in a slight degree, with lime,

though the resident inhabitants do not perceive it. The best spring water is where the country is undulated. With the exception of the alluvions, the lighter soils prevail near the lakes: the richer and heavier some distance back in the country.

In summer, Fahrenheit ranges from 72° to 100°, while it blows in the prevailing directions from south to west; but on shifting to the north, the mercury soon after sinks to 50°, and sometimes lower. The climate is remarkably dry.

In winter a day scarcely occurs, except it rains, and that seldom, in which people do not work in the woods. A very mild winter is always considered a disadvantage in Upper Canada.

The climate, already described as milder in summer, and its severity of much shorter duration in winter, than that of Lower Canada, is also considered, in some respects, less salubrious.*

The climate, however, generally speaking, is healthy; and the exceptions are, like the fens of Lincolnshire, in England, low wet tracts, and still water, in which vegetable substances in progress of decomposition are deposited. These are found in low lands and marshes, where agues and lake fevers are common in summer and autumn. As the country is opened, and these places drained, periodical diseases will likely disappear, as they seldom prevail on the dry lands. The author of a very useful little book, lately published, who says he has long resided in Upper Canada, says, "the notoriously unhealthy parts chiefly occur between the Rideau Lake and Lake Ontario; between the Bay of Quinté and the lake, and at some marshy tracts at each end of Lake Erie."

Fevers and agues are also prevalent around Lake St. Clair. Occasionally, like the influenza this year in England, and other epidemics, aguish fevers break out generally in the province. In the remarkably hot summer of 1828, the lakes appeared, like fresh water kept long on shipboard, in a state of putrefaction; and in course of the disengagement which restores their usual limpid purity, threw up a noxious slime. Fever and ague, in almost every part of Upper Canada, followed.

Intemperance and careless exposure of the person while in a state of perspiration, or in, and after over-exertion, certainly dispose the constitution to agues. This was manifest among the workmen along the Rideau Canal. Drinking cold water, when the weather is very hot, is also dangerous. A little brandy or other spirit should be moderately mixed with water, when taken on being thirsty.

Quinine is the general specific. A little sulphur, mixed with a glass of spirits, wholesome diet, proper attention to clothing and cleanliness, will also effect

a cure.

Consumptions are not nearly so prevalent as in England, or the northern states.

The winds, rains, snow-falls in winter, and lake hurricanes, I have already described, when treating generally of the climate of North America. *

The wild animals have also been already described. The most common are, wolves, bears, and loup-cerviers, which annoy the inhabitants of new settlements by destroying sheep and pigs. Common deer abound; they are gentle, and easily domesticated. Otters are in many parts numerous. Beavers are scarce. Foxes, martens, porcupines, racoons, weasel, wood-chuck, are also met with. Hares are plentiful. Wild beasts must, however, diminish rapidly in a country which will soon be intersected in every direction by roads.

Wild turkeys, which do not differ in appearance from domestic turkeys, except being larger, frequent the western parts; and wild geese, ducks, pigeons, and most of the other birds already mentioned as common to America, are plentiful in the course of their migrations. Snipes, wood-larks, and partridges are also abundant.

but the poor and hard worked emigrant has too often his own folly and imprudence to thank for his sufferings. Reckless and fool-hardy, he exposes his person to various vapours from the swampy borders of a lake, or to sudden chill when predisposed to fever or fatigue, or in a state of profuse perspiration. Others, again, fall victims to intemperance, and the blame rests most unjustly with the climate. That a certain degree of miasma exists is nevertheless certain, because even infants carefully attended to are personally subject to aguish attacks."

The Backwoodsman says, "The only disease we are annoyed with here, that we are not accustomed to at home, is the intermittent fever, - and that, although most abominably annoying, is not by any means dangerous: indeed the most annoying circumstance connected with it is, that instead of being sympathised with, you are only laughed at. Otherwise, the climate is infinitely more healthy than that of England. Indeed, it may be pronounced the most healthy country under the sun, considering that whiskey can be procured for about one shilling sterling per gallon."