CHAP. VI.

ROUTE BY THE ST. LAWRENCE FROM MONTREAL TO KINGSTON.

LACHINE.

LAKE ST. LOUIS. - CAGNAWAGHA. - SCENERY,

CÔTEAU DU LAC. GLENGARRY.

- LAKE

CASCADES, ETC.
ST. FRANCIS. ST. REGIS, CORNWALL. - AMERICAN BANKS OF

THE ST. LAWRENCE.

PRESCOT.

BROCKVILLE.

BURG. BAY OF THE THOUSAND ISLANDS, ETC.

OGDENS

We may either travel, after crossing from Lachine to either side of the St. Lawrence, along the roads leading through the settlements on the banks of the river, or proceed, if in summer, partly by water, and, where rapids occur, by land. In winter, travellers are conveyed in sledges, drawn by one or more horses.

On leaving Lachine, by a steam-boat, we pass the Indian hamlet of Cagnawagha, and the cascade of St. Louis. The lake of the same name immediately after expands to a width of several miles. The scenery, which unfolds its picturesque features as we pass along, is exceedingly interesting. The swelling high outline of Montreal receding behind us; the romantic embouchure of the Ottawa, the sweet little village and decent church of St. Ann, and the richly wooded island Perault, rising on the north; a low but rich country, through which the Chateauqui flows, extending along the south; and the head of the lake near the Cascades, rising before us in the distance, form an extensive and beautiful panorama. Lake St. Louis is about twelve miles long by about six broad.

At the turbulent rapids of the Cascades, to avoid which there is a short canal, 500 feet long, travellers land from the steam-boats, and usually proceed by a stage-coach 16 miles to the village of Côteau du Lac. The post road leads along the north banks of the river; and a succession of dangerous rapids occur in this distance, known by the name of the Cascades and Les Cedres. The latter take their appellation from the cedar trees growing on some of the islands, close to a village of the same name.

At Côteau du Lac, above the split rock, 36 miles, or Du Buisson rapid, at the lower end of Lake St. Francis, where there are locks, it is usual to embark in a steam-boat for the thriving village of Cornwall, where the dangerous rapid, or succession of rapids, called the Long Saut, again interrupt the navigation. There is a custom-house at Côteau du Lac.

Lake St. Francis is about twenty-five miles long, and about five and a half broad. It is sufficiently deep, and its waters remarkably clear.

The first township in Upper Canada is Glengarry, and we soon discover that we are not among the Canadian habitans. The inhabitants of Glengarry are principally Scotch Highlanders, or their descendants; and a more hospitable warm-hearted people we seldom meet with; yet, although they have surmounted all the peculiar difficulties of new settlements, there is nothing of that snug comfort that we observe among the peasantry of Lower Canada. In Glengarry, the houses are often too large, and only half finished; or we still find many of the inhabitants living in log houses. This arises from want of management, and the force of habit.

A little below Cornwall the boundary of the United States meets, and follows the St. Lawrence. Close to this place is the Indian village of St. Regis, the last point on the south shore in Lower Canada. On the opposite side of the river, lands are reserved for them by the British government.

From Cornwall, stages run along the north banks of the St. Lawrence, forty-eight miles, to Prescot. Both sides of the river are equally fertile; but from St. Regis upwards, the Americans appear to have made greater improvements than the British settlers.

From Prescot, nearly opposite to which stands the American town of Ogdensburg, steam-boats run to Kingston, passing between the thriving British town of Brockville, and the American town of Morristown, and then, through the channels of the part called "the Thousand Islands," * the charming picturesque scenery of which has been so frequently admired.

The country and the river from Montreal to Kingston is richly picturesque. The soils vary from heavy clay to lighter loam, and produce luxuriant crops of wheat and other kinds of grain. Many of the houses are well built; and the cultivation of the farms extensive, and much improved during late years. The roads are much better than formerly, although exceedingly heavy during spring and rainy weather.

The Americans possess the deepest channel, and, in fact, claim the right of navigation to the sea.

It is by some considered that we might find it advantageous to give the Americans permission to send down their produce, not only by the St. Law

rence but by the Rideau Canal, but that it would be dangerous to substantiate a right to navigate the former.

As we pass along from the Cascades to Kingston, a distance of about 175 miles, picturesque islands, some beautifully wooded, others cleared and tilled; villages; an almost uninterrupted succession of farms, the clearings inclosed by rail fences, and tolerably well cultivated; farm-houses, barns, orchards; here and there a church or chapel; horses, horned cattle, and sheep, constantly unfold themselves, in front of magnificent forests. Wild fowl, occasionally deer; large rafts of timber, sometimes broken up by the violence of the current or sudden squalls of wind, floating violently down the rapids, or scattered over the lakes; batteaux or Durham boats passing laboriously up, or descending rapidly, add great animation to the scenery.

CHAP. VII.

KINGSTON NAVAL ESTABLISHMENT. - DOCK-YARD. - SHIPS OF SACKETT'S HARBOUR. - LAKE ONTARIO. - STEAM NEW SETTLEMENTS. MARMORA IRON WORKS.

WAR.

SHIPS.

BAY OF QUINTÉ.

KINGSTON, built in 1783, is very conveniently situated, in lat. 44° 8' N. long. 76° 40′, near the spot where old fort Frontenac formerly stood, and at the mouth of the Cataraqui, which joins the St. Lawrence at the bottom of Lake Ontario. Its appearance is pleasing, and the surrounding scenery is agreeably picturesque. It has agovernment-house, a court-house, gaol, church, kirk, Catholic chapel, and meeting-house, barracks, powder magazines, market-house, bank, and hospital. Some of the houses are built of stone, the rest of wood. The streets intersect at right angles. A bridge, 600 yards long, extends above the town to Point Frederick. The population is estimated at from 5000 to 6000: truth probably "lies between."

The harbour is excellent; ships of the line can lie close to the shore; and a stone fort and block-house command the entrance. The St. Lawrence, 112 guns, and Psyche frigate, and two or three other ships of war, with several gun-boats, lay since the war in the harbour rotting, and in nearly a sinking state, until last year, when they were sold, on condemnation, for trifling sums. The dock-yard on the west side of Navy Bay, opposite Kingston, is furnished with every