1330.] Memoir of W. Bulmer, Esq. also of the finest quality. This work continues to maintain a high price. We have not space to enumerate the private reprints by Mr. Bulmer, for the Roxburgh Club, the history of which will be found in Dr. Dibdin's Bibliographical Decameron, vol. III. pp. 69-74. [See also our vol. LXXXIII. part ii. pp. 3, 340, for an account of the first anniversary of the Club; and its proceedings are recorded in various subsequent volumes.] One of the chief difficulties Mr. Bulmer had to contend with, was the providing of good black printing ink. That formerly used by printers was execrable. Baskerville had made his own ink, as well as type, about 1760, which enabled him to produce such fine work; and Mr. Robert Martin, his apprentice, was still living, when Mr. Bulmer began business. He first supplied Mr. Bulmer with fine lampblack, for his experiments in fine printing. But the difficulty of obtaining any adequate supply, induced Mr. Bulmer to erect an apparatus for the purpose of making his own ink, and he succeeded to the extent of his wishes in producing a very superior black. "The most anxious scrutiny (observes Mr. Hansard, in his Typo graphia) cannot, in his Shakspeare or Milton, find the least appearance of failure of that beautiful velvet richness of colour which the ink originally possessed. In the Shakspeare, which was nine years in hand, the same harmony of tint and richness of colour prevail, as if the ink had been all made at one time, and the last sheet inked by the same hand in the same hour as the first: this single work probably contains more pages than all that Bodoni ever printed. But the finest criterion by which to judge of the perfection of ink and work is offered in the volumes printed by Mr. Bulmer, of Dr. Dibdin's Decameron ; the numerous wood engravings in which the ground is an entire black, and others with parts of the figures black on white ground, exhibit such an evenness and intensity of colour, as nothing but ink of the most perfect compound for the purpose could effect. Much, of course, must have been owing to the aid of good and congenial quality in the paper, and ensured in effect by the experience and skill which Mr. Bulmer was so competent to impart to his workmen; and that a great deal must 309 have depended on, and been effected by the two last named requisites, is very apparent, from his being able to produce the same effect in ink of another colour, namely red." After continuing in business with the highest credit for about 30 years, Mr. Bulmer retired in 1819, with a well-earned fortune, to a genteel residence at Clapham Rise, and was succeeded at the Shakspeare Press by his partner Mr. W. Nicol, the only son of Mr. Bulmer's firm friend, the late G. Nicol, Esq. Mr. Nicol, in his Octoglot folio edition of Virgil, edited by W. Sotheby, Esq. has proved himself a most diligent and able successor; while, in publications of smaller dimensions, such as Major's editions of Walton's Angler and Lives, he has not been less eminently successful. But whilst we have justly placed Mr. Bulmer in the first rank of his profession, let us not forget that he had equal claims to distinction among those whose memory is revered for their many private and domestic virtues. We may then truly say, that his art has been deprived of one of its brightest ornaments, and his friends have to lament the loss of one not easily surpassed in every moral excellence. Mr. Bulmer was younger brother of Sir Fenwick Bulmer, who died May 4, 1824, aged 79, the senior member of the Honourable Band of Gentlemen Pensioners. The late Mr. Bulmer was also for a long time one of the Gentlemen Pensioners; to which corps the late Wm. Gifford, esq. was Paymaster. Some pleasant poetical letters from Mr. Gifford to Mr. Bulmer will soon appear in a sixth volume of Nichols's "Literary Illustrations." Mr. Bulmer died at Clapham Rise, on the 9th of September, in his 74th year, and his remains were interred on the 16th, at St. Clement Danes, Strand, (in which parish his brother had long resided,) attended to the grave by a numerous and respectable company of mourning friends. He has left a widow; but had no children. A portrait of Mr. Bulmer will be: found in vol. II. of Dr. Dibdin's Bibliographical Decameron; but having been taken when he was a young man, the resemblance is not recognisable by us. Nor can we speak favourably of an engraving in wood of Mr. Bulmer in Hansard's "Typographia." A more faithful portrait was executed in litho 310 Walk through the Highlands. graphy, in 1827, painted fand drawn on stone by James Ramsay. Of this portrait a correct copy is herewith presented to our readers. WALK THROUGH THE HIGHLANDS. (Continued from p. 109.) A o'clock the left Ulva. Both our host and The day was extremely fine, and the road though somewhat rough, yet far from being unpleasant. While in some little doubt about our way, we were fortunately joined by a good "auld wife," who very desirous of entering into conversation, said she was travelling for some distance on our road, and would direct us. From her as well as from every one else to whom we mentioned his name, we had an excellent account of the Laird of Staffa, as well as of his lady, whom she represented to us as equally charitable with himself,-equally solicitous on all occasions to do good. Staffa, it appeared, had been much interested about the instruction of his poor islanders, and had instituted schools for their advancement in useful learning. The old woman spoke of the Laird and his family with much affection, and we were pleased at the artless and apparently sincere expression of her gratitude. She informed us that she liked much to talk with us, for the sake of improving herself in our language. Like all the Highlanders, she was perfectly conscious of speaking it with a much better accent than those of the Low Country; and this idea gave her no little satisfaction. We put some questions to her relative to emigration. She informed us that great numbers had gone off from her village some years ago, but none lately. Indeed we never heard of any actual departures, or even projected expeditions, during our whole tour through the Highlands; and this circumstance would seem to prove satisfactorily that the condition of the poorer inhabitants of these remote regions had, within these few years, been * One of the Hebrides, in the district of Mull, and shire of Argyle. [Oct. much ameliorated, or that those who had tried the experiment of removal, had failed to observe their hopes realized in foreign and not less inhospitable shores. We now for the first time in our tour, felt it extremely hot. The flies too were very troublesome, though we were passing close to the sea-shore on an elevated situation, and open to the breeze. From this point we had our last view of Staffa, now surrounded by a sea calm and placid as it had yesterday been rough and boisterous. Besides Staffa, we enjoyed an excellent prospect of Collonsay, Dutchman's Cape, and several other islands, the appearance of which in a rippling sea, and under an azure sky, was highly exhilarating. Several vessels in motion, their sails swelled by the wind, added to the cheerfulness of the scene, which we had an opportunity of contemplating for a considerable distance with the greatest satisfaction. According to the expression of our Highlanders, this was "a grand day" indeed, yet we experienced considerable fatigue, and had occasion to observe with how much less alacrity we pursued our march, after having only oatcake instead of wheaten bread for break fast, and we began to grumble at the horrible Mull miles. The hills too were steepish, yet the road hitherto was tolerably good. At length we found ourselves uncertain of our course, on a bleak and trackless moor. We tried two or three apparently sheep walks without any satisfaction, and at last abandoned ourselves nearly to the direction of chance. We arrived at one of the hills of this well-named gloom of desolation, down whose steep sides we wound in an oblique direction, and crossed a ford which lay beneath us. From this spot we had a view of a farm house, which gave us considerable relief, and towards which we directed our steps. Hence, after much fatigue, we arrived at a rude bridge at the head of a loch, and finally reached Ballacray, at four. Here we rested and refreshed, after which we proceeded and marched into Tobermory about eight, without having encountered one single drop of rain! The principal inn is built on a very respectable quay, lately erected at a considerable expense, for the use as well as ornament of this remote harbour. On our expe dition to Staffa, one of the boatmen 1880.] Walk through the Highlands.-Strontian. had given us a most splendid and exaggerated account of this metropolis of the Islands. The harbour, he informed us, was fully equal to that of Leith, and from his description we had expected in this, the port of Tobermory, to behold the masts "clustering like reeds in the Lake of Lego." In this, indeed, we were disappointed, yet the harbour appeared sufficiently commodious, and we were informed that King's ships had not unfrequently anchored in the roads. On the morrow we delivered our credentials or letters of recommendation to the friend of Dr. M. to whom they were addressed. As soon as the weather permitted, which was not till four o'clock, this gentleman, with much civility, procured us a boat, and having kindly furnished us with letters, witnessed our embarkation on Loch Sunart for Salem. Our boat appeared rotten, leaky, and without proper tackle of any description, and our sailors themselves remarked that theirs was 66 very like a drunken man's boat, a good deal out of order." Before quitting the harbour, we hauled up to shore for the purpose of taking in ballast, which was fortunately plentiful, and the business soon accomplished. We had but little wind, and made but indifferent way even with the assistance both of the oars and sail. Our boatmen, however, were very civil and intelligent, and amused us by many nautical anecdotes. One of them had sailed, he said, fifty times close by Staffa, but had never the curiosity to look into it; neither could we make him believe that he would have seen any thing worthy his notice if he had. The older of the two amused us much by his superstitious whistling for a breeze, and though we laughed at it, he appeared to regard it as a very serious and all-availing ceremony, and at intervals continued whistling on without a smile. We had witnessed the same thing amongst our boatmen of Staffa, who also added the no less powerful entreaty or command of " Come, breeze!" in a tone of voice, and with a peculiarity of manner which was very pleasing. Mr. C. had very obligingly furnished us with letters to two of his friends living near each other, but on opposite sides of the Loch, in whose mansions he recommended us to take shelter if 311 the night should prove unruly, and in either of which we might make sure of an excellent bed. At first we had prepared to avail ourselves of these letters, but getting on better than we expected, and the evening again becoming fine, we passed pretty quickly by their houses, and arrived at Salem at eight. Here there was only a miserable hovel by way of inn, so that, late as it was, and though we had a long walk before us, we determined to proceed to Strontian at all hazards. The road, as it had been described to us, was extremely good, pleasant, and romantic. We now passed close by the side of the Loch, through flourishing and very extensive plantations,now lost sight of it for a time, and appeared to strike deeper into the woods. Speedily the Loch re-appeared, and served very much to cheer us on our way. After the first six miles, it became misty and dark, and the road rather intricate. We came to two paths, took the wrong, and got into a stone quarry. After extricating ourselves with some difficulty, we were at a loss whether to go onwards or retreat to the road we had left. We determined on the latter, but without finding it practicable; returned to the quarry, and finally discovered something like a track. Here it began to rain. We were totally ignorant of our way, the night wearing apace; and we began to consider ourselves far from wise, at having wandered thus unknowing and unknown, unaccompanied by a guide, and on foot, into these dark territories. Yet, after getting safely through the quarry, the road improved; we arrived at some huts, whose inhabitants we with difficulty roused, obtained information, as well as a refreshing draught of milk, and arrived at Strontian at half an hour after midnight.* The gentleman at Strontian to whom we had letters, was from home, but Strontian is a small village situate in the district of Sunart, and erected for the accommodation of the miners. It has lately become famous for having given to the world a new mineral, which is distinguished by the name of Strontites; the chemical properties whereof are ably described by Dr. Kirwan, in the Transactions of the Royal Hope, M.D. in vol. iv. p. ii. p. 3, of the Irish Academy; and by Thomas Charles Transactions of the Royal Society of Edinburgh. 312 Walk through the Highlands.-Fort William. his lady showed us every attention, and put us under the guidance of a man well acquainted with the place, and from whom we derived much information. The road to the mines, some two miles from the village, was extremely rough, steep, and fatiguing. The day too was fine, and very warm, and they had not in these regions seen so much of the Sun for many weeks previously. Notwithstanding, the aspect of the country at the Lead Hills was to the last degree dreary and horrible, a mass of rock and rubbish, without any the least sign of vegetation. In the midst of surrounding hills, bleak and comfortless, we appeared to have bidden adieu for ever to the world, or to be quitting it step by step for the regions of misery and darkness. The mining at this time was not going on very vigorously, nor was the number of men employed great. Their works had been considerably impeded by an accumulation of water, to rid themselves of which they were now about sinking a level, meaning afterwards to proceed in their more proper business with the greatest alacrity. The veins of lead, we were told, were very rich, and several new ones had just been discovered. Our guide exhibited to us the machinery usually employed in such places, near to which he pointed out to us some excellent specimens of strontites, as well as of lead ore, and different spars, though the former mineral appears now to be extremely scarce. The way back being a descent, gave us less trouble than we had experienced in our walk to the mines, yet even here our road was often over loose stones, rubbish, or rock, and by no means without its annoyance. The village of Strontian is very pleasantly situated, directly at the head of Loch Sunart, the hills adjoining to which are crowned with beautiful and very thriving plantations. The Loch itself is here extremely picturesque, while the odious Lead Hills are completely shut out from the view. In a neighbourhood civilized and populous it would speedily become a favourite retreat. As it is, in the winter at least, it must be dreary and comfortless, its inhabitants perforce considering themselves as prisoners. At the time we were there the dowager Lady Riddell, with her friends, had just left [Oct. it, and their absence was of course considerably regretted. Quitting Strontian, bleak hills, on which vegetated two or three miserable trees, bounded the prospect on all sides; but suddenly more cheery scenes broke in upon us. We now got a view of Loch Eil, its shores displaying many beauties. On the road side Яourish some of the most beautiful heaths I had ever an opportunity of seeing, the flowers of which were various and most beautiful, pink, yellow, and purple. We passed Coran Ferry, crossed the Loch, and though it was late, proceeded onwards to Fort William.* The road was good, but the rain fell in torrents; it was dark, and long before entering the town we were completely wet through. After our long banishment from populous cities, this place appeared a metropolis of the first magnitude. The extended street, with the few dim lights from the shop windows, struck us with astonishment, and we anticipated with much pleasure all the luxuries which must necessarily flow in upon us in this longwished for haven. Neither were we disappointed,—the inn was excellent. In the morning we delivered our letters to Mr. S. a friend of Dr. M.'s. The approach to this gentleman's house was by a flight of stairs on the outside of the building, conducting into the second story. This is a truly Caledonian fashion, having an awkward and most uncomfortable appearance, and has been noticed by Dr. pation of Cromwell, by the advice and un* A fort was built here, during the usur der the direction of General Monk; and ground than it does at present, having acwhich occupied at that time much more commodations for 2000 effective troops. It was then named "The Garrison of Inver Lochy," from the ancient Castle of that name in the neighbourhood. In the reign of King William, it was rebuilt on a smaller scale, with stone and lime; when it received the name of that Monarch, while the village around it took the name of Maryburgh, from his Royal Consort. In 1746, it stood under the gallant conduct of Captain Scott. a siege of five weeks against the rebels, It is now, however, by no means a place of strength. Some years ago, a considerable part of the wall was undermined, and swept away by the river Nevis, which flows close by it. Since that time, it has been going rapidly to decay, and there seems little bability of its being repaired. pro 1830.] Walk through the Highlands-Ben Nevis. Johnson and other travellers. In Fort William this method of approach seemed very common, and the town has an appearance cold and cheerless as any of those of the same size and population throughout the kingdom. This gentleman exhibited to us his collection of minerals, with which we were much gratified. He gave us a very appalling account of the ascent up Ben Nevis, and related an adventure of his own there, well calculated to frighten stouter hearts than ours. Notwithstanding, we wished, as the weather was fine, to make the attempt without delay. Summoning the guide, we found that, though late, the ascent might be made. We determined to proceed, and the man had orders to get ready his basket of provisions, whisky, and all other requisites, accordingly. This was soon done. He recommended to each of us a stout oak stake, which he informed us would be of the greatest service, indeed indispensable; and thus equipped we sallied forth upon this perilous expedition at half-past twelve. The Sun was bright, the day extremely hot; I was lame, and had therefore less spirits for the undertaking than I should have had under other circumstances. The road, however, for a considerable distance, was smooth and pleasant, and I expected to get on tolerably well. Beginning to ascend, the "pull" to one in a sound state would have been dreadful. To me, with an excoriated foot, it was inexpressibly harassing. At length, after toiling in a way which threw all our former exertions into the shade, we arrived faint, panting, and exhausted at the first landing place, and instantly threw ourselves on the ground; our guide being very glad to do the same. We were in a state of the most violent perspiration, most plentifully "larding the lean earth," on which we were so glad to recline. Our hearts absolutely sounded within us, beating with the greatest violence against our sides, and, for my own part, I certainly looked forward to the remaining part of our march with considerable dismay. Soon we resumed our route. The sun was burning hot, but we had now "got wind;" the way was not quite so steep, and we proceeded with far greater facility. After a second weary pull, we again rested, and had GENT. MAG, October, 1830. 313 At now a very extensive view of the coun- Soon after this, the sky clouded over, there came on a thick mist, which ended in a complete drenching rain, and we were obliged to abandon all hopes of a more extensive view from the summit, to which we were now so nearly approaching. Very soon after the commencement of this our fourth march, all vegetation fails; we travelled over huge loose stones, which in the rain looked more than commonly horrible. Our march over them was uncertain, and highly fatiguing; their edges were sharp, our shoes had for some time been worn very thin, and we felt them very sensibly through the soles. All obstacles, however, were finally overcome, and we happily reached the wished-for height precisely at four. It continued raining very hard, we were almost wholly without shelter, having only two or three stones larger than the rest to protect us in some litthe degree from the storm, when we |